Doëlan to Flueve Odet - Saturday, 23 August 2003, 33 miles

We hadn't previously taken the Odet up to Quimper, so, if the wind served to let us make it on the tide, we thought we'd go for it.

We cast off at 07:30 on the last of the ebb, with just enough water to escape with everything up. Outside, we found a F1/2, which we took to be the last of the overnight land breeze. However, it gradually strengthened to give us an Easterly F3, which allowed us to make good speed past the rivers Belon and and Aven, les Iles de Vert, then the rocks guarding the wide bay with Concarneau and Benodet, where we hardened up for Benodet at the entrance of the Odet.

At 11:00, we entered the river, passing all the local yachts leaving for their day's sailing. We dropped the sails and motored through the moorings. Once through, we made sail again and sauntered up the river, gybing at each bend. Tucked into the woods on either side, there are chateaux and cottages, set in clearings - altogether an especially lovely river.

Chateau overlooking the Odet

At 13:00, we anchored in 2.2m just below the bridge blocking the way into Quimper, launched the dinghy and motored up to a quay by the tourist office in town, where we got a map and a 2 minute run-down on what to see.

We enjoyed an excellent and well-priced moules frites overlooking the cathedral. Then a tour of the cathedral to see its offset nave - there is a kink between the nave and chancel where it wiggles round some rocks - and a stroll round the old town. As so often with big towns, it was difficult to find any real shops. However, we found a covered market with butchers and greengrocers, so all was well.

At 15:30, we were back on Razzmatazz, and hoisted sail to beat down the river in the negligible breeze. We found ourselves in competition with a local yacht, which showed us where the sandbanks where by running aground, then overtook us again in the fluky winds, before falling behind as we crossed a lake with truer winds.

At 18:00, we anchored in a creek off the river - l'Anse de Combrit - in 3m. There were several other yachts at the entrance enjoying the wash from passing fishing and speed boats, but we had Combrit to ourselves, and very lovely it was too.